“A gentleman never parts with jade without reason.” This ancient maxim, passed down for thousands of years, not only reveals the exalted status of jade in Chinese culture but also unveils a strict and profound “Way of Wearing Jade” in ancient society. Wearing jade was not merely a simple adornment; it embodied moral norms, symbolized identity, served as a spiritual anchor, and even encompassed cosmic philosophy, forming an indispensable part of the Chinese civilization's ritual system.
The story begins in the distant prehistoric civilizations. The jade dragon of the Hongshan culture and the jade cong of the Liangzhu culture, these early jade artifacts were not only used for sacrificial purposes; their forms and patterns already contained a certain order and symbolism. Entering the Zhou Dynasty, with the establishment of the “Rites of Zhou,” jade articles were further incorporated into national rituals, becoming the material carrier of “Li” (ritual). The King of Zhou enfeoffed feudal lords, bestowing upon them jade gui and zhang to signify rank and power. At this time, jade was a “national treasure” used to communicate with heaven and distinguish between superior and inferior.
However, it was Confucius who truly elevated the wearing of jade to the level of a gentleman's personal cultivation. He corresponded the warm, tough, clean, and disciplined characteristics of jade with the gentleman's five virtues of “benevolence, righteousness, wisdom, courage, and purity,” proposing the famous idea of “a gentleman likens virtue to jade.” In the “Li Ji · Pin Yi” (Book of Rites · The Meaning of Presents), Confucius elaborated on the eleven virtues of jade, such as “Its warmth and luster are benevolence; its dense and fine texture is wisdom; its sharp edges without cutting are righteousness; its suspension like a pendant is propriety; when struck, its sound is clear and prolonged, ending abruptly, which is music; its flaws do not obscure its virtues, nor do its virtues conceal its flaws, which is loyalty; its radiance spreads widely, which is trustworthiness; its qi is like a white rainbow, which is heaven; its spirit is seen in mountains and rivers, which is earth; its unique form as gui and zhang is virtue; and its universal preciousness is the Dao.” These insightful discussions endowed jade articles with profound moral connotations, making the wearing of jade a manifestation of a gentleman's self-cultivation and self-discipline.
In the specific rituals of wearing jade, the ancients had strict rules regarding the type of jade, its wearing position, and its combination. For example, the “组玉佩” (zu yu pei, assembled jade pendants) worn by Zhou dynasty nobles consisted of multiple jade pieces strung together, which would produce a clear and pleasant clinking sound when walking. This sound, known as “jade chime,” not only reminded the wearer to maintain proper demeanor but was also regarded as a symbol of a gentleman's “measured steps and graceful movements.” According to the “Li Ji · Yu Zao” (Book of Rites · Jade Dressings), “A gentleman's pendant is not chosen by color, nor by size. It is chosen by what he likes, and by what is appropriate for him.” This indicates that wearing jade was not about pursuing luxury but about emphasizing harmony and unity with one's temperament and status. Different jade articles were worn for different occasions, such as sacrifices, court meetings, and banquets, all of which had corresponding jade pendant systems.
After the Han Dynasty, the secularization trend of jade articles gradually emerged, but their ritual function did not diminish. Jade bi and jade cong were still used for sacrifices, while jade belts, jade hairpins, and jade bracelets became fashionable for daily wear. In the Tang Dynasty, the jade belt system reached its peak, with the rank of officials being distinguished by the material, quantity, and patterns of their jade belts, serving as the most direct manifestation of status. Literati and scholars of the Song Dynasty paid more attention to the elegance and inner meaning of jade, making the appreciation and playing with jade a popular trend. During the Ming and Qing dynasties, jade carving craftsmanship reached its zenith, with various auspicious patterns, poems, and historical allusions incorporated into jade articles, enriching the cultural connotations of wearing jade.
Today, although the tradition of “a gentleman wearing jade” is no longer a strict ritual system, its cultural genes are deeply rooted in the blood of the Chinese nation. Modern people wear jade articles, perhaps more out of a love for traditional culture, a pursuit of beautiful meanings, or an affection for the warm texture of jade. However, when we touch a piece of warm jade, we can still feel the ancient sentiment of “likening virtue to jade” and experience that understated, reserved, and noble gentlemanly demeanor. It reminds us that in the bustling modern society, we can still pursue a spiritual tranquility and loftiness, which is the contemporary inheritance and significance of the “Way of Wearing Jade.”
Jade, as a unique symbol of Chinese civilization, its history of ritual evolution reflects the Chinese nation's eternal pursuit of morality, order, and beauty for thousands of years. It is not merely a stone but a “living fossil” carrying historical memories, cultural spirit, and national emotions.